A Wine Lover’s Guide for Your Vacation in Sicily’s Etna Region
- Sylvia
- Apr 10
- 7 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
Back in 2023, when White Lotus Season 2 was a big sensation, everyone around me started asking for Sicily wine travel tips—especially about the Etna wine region. The show prominently featured a wine tasting on Mount Etna. After visiting many wine regions across Europe, Mount Etna remains one of my top wine vacation destinations for its unique volcanic terroir and exciting local wines. Not only does it offer more of a vacation vibe, thanks to its proximity to beaches, mountains, nature, and culture, but for the wine alone, Etna deserves a spot on your next trip.
Why Etna Is Worth Visiting for Wine Lovers
Reason #1 – Etna’s Unique Terroir: Volcanic Soil and High-Altitude Vineyards
As an active volcano, Mount Etna continuously nurtures the land. Volcanic soil accounts for less than 1% of the world’s wine-growing areas. In fact, as volcanic wines grow in popularity, many regions try to market their wines this way—but Etna doesn’t need to try so hard.
The vineyards here are perched at high altitudes, ranging from 500 to 1,200 meters above sea level. With climate change, winemakers increasingly favor high-altitude sites, especially in warmer regions. The result? Elegant wines with vibrant acidity and complex flavors.
Reason #2 – Etna Is Different from the Rest of Sicily
Locals often say, “Sicily is a continent.” Before I really explored it, I thought it was just a big island. But the truth is, the diversity in landscape, culture, and wine styles reflects Sicily’s rich history—shaped by Greeks, Phoenicians, Moors, and more. Etna is often dubbed “an island within an island”—the Burgundy of the Mediterranean—because it’s so unique.
Most people know Sicilian wine for Nero d’Avola or Marsala. But on Mount Etna, the reds are mainly Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, with some international varieties like Grenache (locally known as Alicante), Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The whites are mainly Carricante—a variety I believe can rival Riesling and Chenin Blanc for its potential to produce complex, age-worthy wines.
Reason #3 – New People, Old Vines
Though considered an up-and-coming region, Etna’s modern revival only began in the early 2000s. Since then, especially after the 2010s, more visionary winemakers, investors, and big names in Italian wine have purchased vineyards here.
What contrasts with this “newness” is the presence of beautiful, ungrafted old vines that survived phylloxera. It’s a rare and precious combination.
Where to Stay in Sicily for an Etna Wine Tour
Option 1: Small Towns in the Etna Wine Region
If you’re planning a wine-focused trip, it’s best to stay near the wine heartland. Most renowned wineries are located on the northern slope of Etna, from Linguaglossa in the east to Randazzo in the west, with Passopisciaro as the central point.
I personally prefer Linguaglossa, a charming town with amazing architecture and street art, which I chose for my long-term stay. It’s close to the coast, conveniently located on the route between Catania, Taormina, and other coastal towns to the wine region. More importantly, Linguaglossa has several excellent restaurants with great wine lists within walking distance of the town center—you won’t need to drive back after dinner with a bit too much to drink. (but drink with moderation!)
Randazzo is also a good option, a beautiful medieval town slightly closer to the wine action. There’s a good chance you’ll run into local winemakers while visiting.
Passopisciaro, on the other hand, is right in the center of the wine production area, but it looks depressing. It has fewer accommodation options than the other two towns.
Option 2: Coastal Towns Near Etna for Beach, Culture, and Wine
If you want to blend your wine trip with the beach or cultural activities, coastal towns are a great alternative. If Taormina is too expensive, consider Giarre and Riposto instead. These are charming fishing villages with beautiful architecture and good transportation connections.
How to Get Around the Etna Wine Region
If you're planning a wine tour in Etna, the best way to get around is by renting a car, giving you full flexibility to visit vineyards, wine bars, and small towns at your own pace. However, Sicilian drivers can be wild—so drive carefully!
Uber doesn’t operate in Italy, and taxis or NCCs (chauffeur services) can be quite expensive in Sicily. Public transportation does exist and is surprisingly reliable(way more reliable than Deutsche Bahn(what can I say), but you'll need to plan ahead. Bus and train intervals can be long, and some wineries are located far from town centers. If you’re going by public transport, check whether the winery can pick you up from the town.
That said, I survived with public transportation during my time in Etna. So it’s definitely doable with the right planning. There are buses connecting Catania, Giarre, Riposto and Fiumefreddo with major towns in the Etna area, and there’s even an old one-wagon train from Riposto to Randazzo, an authentic experience. Etna bus and train schedule: More info here.
Wineries to Visit in Etna
I often get asked: What are the best wineries to visit in Etna? It’s a popular question among wine travelers and pops up regularly on travel forums and social media. People tend to recommend the same places they know, without considering others' preferences. A winery visit can be an unforgettable, immersive experience,or it can leave you disappointed. Here’s a list of wineries I know, grouped by category, you can choose based on what you like.
The Big Names in Etna Wine
Classics are classics for a reason. They offer structured tours, tasting rooms, and benchmark wines of the region.
Terre Nere – A pioneer of Etna, making textbook wines with a strong Burgundy influence. Vineyard and cellar tours, followed by tastings.
Passopisciaro – Another iconic winery in Etna, known for powerful, structured wines.
Donnafugata – A well-known name in Sicily that now has a winery in Etna, offering various tasting experiences.
Pietradolce – In my opinion, one of the most underrated wineries in Etna. Beautiful space with exquisite interior design and artwork, excellent wines, and great staff. The tasting room has a gorgeous view.
Frank Cornelissen – I didn’t list Cornelissen under natural wines because the winery has become more mainstream, and many people want to visit because of the fame. I’ve visited twice. As much as I love Frank’s wines and had nice experiences there, I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone. Not only have I heard many disappointing stories from visitors, but I also think the experience is better suited for wine professionals or hardcore wine geeks. Tastings are standing-only in the cellar, with no tasting room to sit and relax. Plus, they often pour newly released wines or samples from the barrel, which aren’t necessarily as enjoyable as buying the wines in your local wine shop or drinking at a wine bar.
Natural Wine Wineries on Mount Etna
Winemakers with character, stories, and charm. Sometimes a bit chaotic, but always authentic.
Stanza Terrena – Giuseppe studied oenology and took over his family’s vineyard to make natural wine.
Vino di Anna – Run by French wine importer Eric Narioo and his winemaker wife Anna Martens.
Etnella – Davide left his corporate job to become a winemaker. His wines are full of energy and personality.
Sciara – Chinese-American sommelier and winemaker Stef Yim, who settled in Etna after working in vineyards around the world.
Commercial Wineries for Wine Tastings and Vineyard Views
Gambino – Not the best wines, but a good experience for tourists, especially for wine beginners. Tasting includes cheese and local delicacies, vineyard views, and cellar-door sales.
Where to Eat and Drink in Etna’s Wine Towns
My personal favorite wine bistros and restaurants in the Etna area (some well-known spots aren’t on this list intentionally)
Shalai – Linguaglossa
A Michelin one-star that I think deserves two. Modern techniques, premium local ingredients, and a comprehensive wine list covering not just Etna but all of Italy. Pricey, but worth it.(Go for the food, not for the wine)
Great dining experience at Shalai Trattoria LinguaGrossa – Linguaglossa
Casual bistro with great vibes, delicious food, local but with a modern touch, and a fantastic selection of both classic and natural Etna wines at fair prices.
Trattoria LinguaGrossa with a nice wine selection Ristorante Boccaperta – Linguaglossa
Stylish restaurant offering gastronomic dishes made with local ingredients. Elegant setting and a refined wine list. Fewer Etna wines, but solid Italian classics.
Pizzeria Da Mino Antonio – Linguaglossa
The decor may not be charming, but the food more than makes up for it, probably the best calzone of your life. Try the calzone with pistacchio di Bronte, will blow your mind. The wine list is like dining at an Italian grandmother’s: you never know what to expect, but sometimes you’ll be pleasantly surprised with a well-aged Etna wine at a pre-White Lotus price.
Vitis Vineria – Randazzo (formerly in Castiglione)
My top pick for wine lists. You’ll find hidden gems and new winemakers here—wines you won’t see outside of Etna. Great small plates and a cozy atmosphere.
Ristorante Veneziano – Randazzo
A gastronomic restaurant with seasonal, local ingredients. Excellent for mushroom dishes. Solid Etna wine list.
Borgo Santo Spirito – Passopisciaro
Traditional restaurant inside Contrada Santo Spirito, one of the top terroirs in Etna. Peaceful atmosphere, vineyard views, fresh ingredients, and a good wine list.
La Dispensa dell’Etna – Castiglione di Sicilia
A rustic, traditional spot for home-style cooking that feels like eating in a Sicilian family kitchen. Expect assorted aperitivi, pasta dishes, and mains. The wine list focuses on Etna producers, with fair prices and some surprisingly older vintages still listed at pre-hype prices (hopefully they don’t read this and raise them!).
La Dispensa dell’Etna, family style osteria with surprising Etna wines
Plan Your Etna Wine Vacation: Final Tips
Etna is a year-round wine destination, but depending on the season, your experience will vary.
Spring and summer are ideal if you're dreaming of sunshine and beach and cultural events around. The coastal towns come alive, and the vineyards are full of life. Just keep in mind: summer is peak season—crowds, higher prices, and hotter days are all part of the deal.
Autumn, especially September and October, might sound romantic for harvest season, but it’s actually the busiest time for wineries. Many producers are deep in harvest and cellar work, which means fewer winery visits or rushed ones. If you want to truly connect with winemakers, it’s best to avoid this period.
Winter might surprise you. Yes, it’s cold—Etna is a mountain, after all, with high altitude and snowy peaks. But it’s also strikingly beautiful, with a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. And yes, you can even ski on Mount Etna, a truly unexpected Sicilian experience.
But no matter the season, Etna delivers—with great wines, stunning views, and a side of Sicily you won’t find anywhere else. More questions? Comment below, write to me or find me on Instagram.
Comments